I’ve eaten a lot of gnocchi in my life. But whether those stubby potato dumplings were cloaked in five-hour ragu, sauced with bracingly lemony butter and sweet shrimp or crowned with black truffles, Marco Canora’s version blows all the others out of the boiling water.
His gnocchi are made from two ingredients: potatoes and flour. Their preternatural lightness comes from roasting and cutting the former in such a way that obviates the need for more than the bare minimum of the latter. Too much flour (or heaven forbid, egg) and the gnocchi would fall somewhere between ordinary and leaden. Too little and they’d break apart in boiling water instead of liquefying the moment they hit your tongue. They need nothing more than what they get: some butter, Parmesan, maybe a little sage.
“It’s been said a million times, but it’s such a truism: Simple food is not easy,” says Canora. “It looks easy, but try to do it, and try to do it consistently every day.”.
Photographs by Michael Harlan Turkell